Grid Bolting at the Red

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby tbwilsonky » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:14 pm

dustonian wrote: You've really got to look at each route on a case-by-case basis.


but it's probably best to come up with a generic one-size-fits-all plan despite the obvious differences between various situations. i mean, heaven forbid there's any grey area in rock climbing.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby aburgoon » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:21 pm

dustonian wrote:Are you guys really that ethically or aesthetically offended by this to talk so much shit about a route you've never tried or probably even looked at recently?


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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby dustonian » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:29 pm

Oh yeah, what about farting in a crowded elevator and feigning offense??
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby pigsteak » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:46 pm

dustonian wrote:Oh yeah, what about farting in a crowded elevator and feigning offense??



that's clearly what I was trying to do here....
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby 512OW » Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:48 pm

We're a little late on this one. That wall was overbolted way before the linkup went in. In fact, I'd venture to say that the link up IS the actual line. It takes the line of least resistance to the ledge, then follows the only natural feature (that isn't rotten rock) off the ledge.

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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby allah » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:18 am

If someone is going to bitch about "Grid Bolting" then go find a cliff with a single sport route on it, another route added on the same wall anywhere creates a "Grid". If you want routes spaced out over a distance then go somewhere else to climb. I wouldn't call drive-by grid bolted I would say there are a lot of perfect lines (that never suited my climbing style). All pretty obvious to me. As far as The Nothing, to me it makes sense to have an alternate start. If you don't boulder v9 on a regular basis you won't get to the ledge where the really good climbing starts (so i've been told). I have been thinking about adding a bolt to link Dracula into the top of Lucifer which will add a super cool vHard boulder problem that links the two, and to me it makes perfect sense. If anyone wants to do it feel free.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby dustonian » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:35 am

512OW wrote: I'd venture to say that the link up IS the actual line. It takes the line of least resistance to the ledge, then follows the only natural feature (that isn't rotten rock) off the ledge.


Agreed, it does look like a "natural" and aesthetic line.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby schwagpad » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:49 am

JR wrote:
schwagpad wrote:There is no clear ethical argument here,


and

schwagpad wrote: I'll probably chop this over christmas, and put up my own linkup beginning in the Nothing crack and traversing left. This is the ethically proper way to rap bolt this crag.


Quit stalking me. I will rap bolt YOU over Christmas. The battery is charging, and I've outfitted the hilti with a 3/4" neurosurgery bit.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby JR » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:54 am

That is a cool idea Allah(linking Dracula to the top of Lucifer). Have you tried the moves? Will the link up push the grade into 13c territory?
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby allah » Mon Nov 22, 2010 12:56 am

I was thinking it would be around 13d/14a from the last bolt of Dracula its about v9 or so to the jugs on Lucifer. I think it would be pretty sick!
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby schwagpad » Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:23 am

512OW wrote:We're a little late on this one. That wall was overbolted way before the linkup went in. In fact, I'd venture to say that the link up IS the actual line. It takes the line of least resistance to the ledge, then follows the only natural feature (that isn't rotten rock) off the ledge.

Sport: We gridbolt, therefore we are.


I'm psyched the new linkup went in and I'm looking forward to trying to climb it. I also agree that The Nothing is not the line of least resistance (that would be topping out Breakfast Burrito bushwhacking through some thorn bushes and rapelling to the anchors). But I had the fortune of discovering The Driveby with my brother. We walk up to the crag and see a 45 deg. crack leading directly to a steep, fat flake. The Nothing IS an "actual" natural line. . .if nothing else.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby shear » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:06 am

Well, upon further investigation, seems the 'linkup' is a better start to a hard boulder-y route. I'll let this one slide.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby 512OW » Mon Nov 22, 2010 9:19 am

schwagpad wrote:
512OW wrote:We're a little late on this one. That wall was overbolted way before the linkup went in. In fact, I'd venture to say that the link up IS the actual line. It takes the line of least resistance to the ledge, then follows the only natural feature (that isn't rotten rock) off the ledge.

Sport: We gridbolt, therefore we are.


I'm psyched the new linkup went in and I'm looking forward to trying to climb it. I also agree that The Nothing is not the line of least resistance (that would be topping out Breakfast Burrito bushwhacking through some thorn bushes and rapelling to the anchors). But I had the fortune of discovering The Driveby with my brother. We walk up to the crag and see a 45 deg. crack leading directly to a steep, fat flake. The Nothing IS an "actual" natural line. . .if nothing else.


Agreed, for sure. Schwag, I know your "The Nothing" doesn't get done often, but this linkup gets me psyched to work out the bottom boulder problem next season. I imagine it'll do the same for visiting climbers, and we all know that chalk + draws = traffic.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby SCIN » Mon Nov 22, 2010 10:11 am

Wow, Drive-By is going to be as confusing as Pipe Dream some day. That single wall will need its own topo.
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Re: Grid Bolting at the Red

Postby RRO » Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:00 am

SCIN wrote:Wow, Drive-By is going to be as confusing as Pipe Dream some day. That single wall will need its own topo.


i smell conspiracy from the dreamy guidebook author ray ellington to promote job security in his multi-million dollar guidebook update/app empire. hes secretly sending his band of skinny, limber mutant thugs to disperse of as many link-ups, alternate starts, 2 bolt re-routes, sit down start fluff jobs, taped up numbered sequence routes they can.

you have been warned....
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