Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

[vertical1]

it does seem the general concensus is that the guy had the right to be on SBF, and that climb2core should have either just been patient or just moved on. Maybe he was really the one wanting to get on a route over his head due to permadraws?

[chriss]

Puppy, maybe you were the belayer? Nice of you to stick up for your buddy from Bloomington though.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=8307

hmmmmm, well I don't know either of them and I think you are whining like a little bitch. You had to wait for a route, while someone was climbing a little above there heads, who cares? Get up earlier and you will not have that problem. Do you complain when you go to the grocery store and have to wait to checkout?

His fitness tops out at 11b, I betting he was the jack ass sitting on the ledge for 15 min on his "beta burn". Dustin, thanks again for the birthday wishes... now go fuck off too!

Your fitness appears to top out at 12a, how do you think others will perceive your burns on the '13a' projects you have asked about? Something to think about before starting another ridiculous thread....

[climb2core]

Chriss, you are missing the point. We all should get on shit over our head once in a while... it is the best way to know what you have to do to climb at the next level. I got on Spank this spring and it was at my limit just to make the crux. My point (again) is that I consider other people's access and interest in the route I am on. I don't hang out on ledges for 15 min unless I truly think I can send the line. After 10 min of working the same sequence, I will pull through (if possible) or lower if there are people waiting.

I am sure you would appreciate these ethics if you show up at the same crag and want to jump on a line that I am 15 feet up on.

[climb2core]

Ok, I am done posting on this thread. Now I know why I always encounter so many people with so little respect for other climbers. Pigsteak, you spoke the truth.... me, me, and me.

[krampus]

mostly me though

[bcombs]

yeah, and me too.

[TradMike]

TradMike is a bad ass!! He's ben crushing 10a/b onsight for over 20 years!!! Don't f--- with him SCIN, he's got mad trad 'tude, etc etc etc. YAAAAAAAAWWWNNN.....someone's been reading back issues of Alpinist on the shitter a little too much IMO.

If you are so bad ass. Let's see you try Excalibur. It's only 10a. I bet you can't do it!

[Rocky Top]

Get up earlier and you will not have that problem. Do you complain when you go to the grocery store and have to wait to checkout?
.

Sound advice, tho I do complain when there is not enough checkers, but I also get up early(er) if I am keen on something. Works whether you are alpine, sport, or trad in my xperience.

Oh, and















ME

[chriss]

Chriss, you are missing the point. ..... After 10 min of working the same sequence, I will pull through (if possible) or lower if there are people waiting.
I am sure you would appreciate these ethics if you show up at the same crag and want to jump on a line that I am 15 feet up on.

I Understand exactly what you are saying ... that everyone should agree with your point of view. if I am working a project, especially a first burn on a hard route, I am going to do it right. I may try a sequence 7 or 8 times to find the most efficient beta. I don't worry if someone is waiting, (the only person the matters is your belayer) because when they get on the route they have all the time that they need to complete it. If I was to impatient to wait I would jump on another route or an extra warmup burn, something most of us have done many times!

C2C, I think you may have missed the point.

it does seem the general concensus is that the guy had the right to be on SBF, and that climb2core should have either just been patient or just moved on.

[Toad]

C2C - I'm with you on both accounts.

[DuppyC]

TradMike is a bad ass!! He's ben crushing 10a/b onsight for over 20 years!!! Don't f--- with him SCIN, he's got mad trad 'tude, etc etc etc. YAAAAAAAAWWWNNN.....someone's been reading back issues of Alpinist on the shitter a little too much IMO.

If you are so bad ass. Let's see you try Excalibur. It's only 10a. I bet you can't do it!

What's up Dusty, you going to accept this challenge or what? If so, I may want to run some sort of odds and or be the bookie to take bets on the accomplishment. Since you've been fairly silent since the challenge, I assume you are not up for it...

If I am wrong, let us know and I will act as "The House," and start taking bets on if you can onsight that 10a choss pile known as Excalibur. I think you got it!!

[pigsteak]

shoot..I have never placed gear but I'll take the bet...10b trad is what, like 5.6 sport? except 5.6 sport is more fun.

[the lurkist]

I think Duston's silence is graciousness in that you have no idea of his climbing vita. Just an FYI.

[bcombs]

I sent Bonzo once. It was epic. I peed a little.

[TradMike]

You don't need any trad gear. It has a bolt and use a screamer. If you do fall, make sure to push off. I don't want any blood on my hands.