Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

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Wolf
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf » Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:19 pm

dustonian wrote:Agree on 12c, but it is a packed grade in the Red: Steelworker, Mosaic, Belly of the Beast, Hang Over, Super Slab, Astrodog, and Bush League are all in there IMO. Also Big Money Grip, Blue Eyed HJ, and Ale 8 for 12b, Bare Metal, Supafly, Wildfire, Swahili Slang, or Bloodline for 12a, Infidel, Ethics Police, or Fibrulator Direct for 11d (All Things is pretty mediocre and short really), and Banshee or Crown of Thorns for 11c. For 5.10 and below, there are dozens of trad lines better than most of the routes. listed... B3, Inhibitor, and Day Tripping put the rest to shame at those grades. Also, Super Dario is a much better 11a than Bathtub and probably Jack in the Pulpit or Fire and Brimstone for 10d over BB with its easy start, poison ivy no-hands, and recent upgrade from 10c. And for that matter, probably Loompa or Banjolero over Thunderclinger.
Are you saying that B3 and Inhibitor are 5.10, or did you mean to say that at 11b and below the trad lines are better?
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hamsco
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by hamsco » Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:56 pm

Central Scrutinizer for 5.9 (So it's mixed, big deal)
Brown Eyed Girl for 10
Bandolier for 11a

For an 8 go climb Arachnid , cause it's so much fun !
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dustonian
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Wed Feb 19, 2014 9:45 pm

Oh yeah, good point Wolf... 11b and below then... And Bandolier! Good call Hammon... and Centerfire for mid-11 as well.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by One-Fall » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:13 pm

So the OP's list is good and talking about those climbs over pizza will give you lots of street (rhodo) cred.
However, as a rebuttal, I present for your approval, my list of fantastic climbs that no visiting or primarily gym climbers will know/care about. Be warned that this list will not elevate you in anyone's eyes, and in fact will likely have the opposite effect.
Without further adieu, The Uncool Kids List:

5.9 Scabies
10a Palm Friction
10b Motor Booty Pimp Affair
10c Return to Sender
10d Toxic Avenger
11a Drip Wire
11b Hen-ry!
11c Explanatory Gap
11d Foot Jive
12a Tabernacle
12b Special Impetus
12c Techno Destructo
12d Wicked Games
13a Zendebad
13b Code Red (I don't want to hear 12d, those crimps were small).
Can't we all just get along?

tyler.yarbrough
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:21 pm

I honestly didn't have a great time on bandolier -- probably because it was 31 degrees outside and I couldn't feel a damn thing. That being said, the list has been updated with a lot of feedback from all over the place, the response has been pretty awesome. http://www.elementalclimbingclub.com/bl ... e-by-grade

Most everything now has two routes for each grade, although the uncool kids list hasn't yet been taken into consideration...could be a dark horse.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by One-Fall » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:31 pm

Dark Horse, indeed.

:)
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dustonian
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:35 pm

I am incredibly proud one of my more mediocre routes made such an esteemed list, Mr. Smith!! ;)

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One-Fall
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by One-Fall » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:47 pm

Dusty, for my money, Golden Shower is your best route.
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dustonian
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:50 pm

You need to check out evil emperor and gene wilder... you'll dig on nanotechnology too. I'm still partial to bloodline and day tripping tho.

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tbwilsonky » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:02 pm

i've raved about 95% of the routes i've done (PERFECT!, BRILLIANT!, etc) so i've got nothing but surplus when it comes to list-making. that said, the following routes stood out to me:

11 > Yellow Brick Road - overhead press to facilitate going up? yes. more please.
12 > Wildfire - your eyes tell you you're climbing hard, but your body knows you're not.
12+ > Jesus Wept - cool bottom section and then plenty of time to ponder the crux section. great potential for heart breaking.
13 > Falls City - short continuous and powerful without being a pocket fest. pretty unique for the red.
13+ > True Love - overhanging crimp ladder? yessssss.
haunted.

dustonian
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:12 pm

Haha. The Gift is really great for the grade as well... and ohgawd, what about Soul Ram???

And good call on Appalachian Spring... amazing route

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by hamsco » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:26 pm

You have lost me on the uncool list.

If they are really "uncool" Then Scabies is perfect! But Toxic is a 5 star mega classic !
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dustonian
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:27 pm

Go rebolt that one hambone...

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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by One-Fall » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:42 pm

Scott, I'm saying if you send and spray off the OP's list, it will garner at least a modicum of respect.
The routes I chose for my "uncool" (think the table I sat at in highschool), are all soooooooo good, but they will never let you move up to the popular table.

For my money, I take the uncool list. And I have the spray to prove it.
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Wolf
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Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf » Thu Feb 20, 2014 4:44 pm

For "uncool routes" I really liked Cold Shot. At 13a Appalachian Spring is amazing, but Prometheus Unbound is still my favorite so far. It's a better, harder version of Jesus Wept.
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