Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

How far apart are your hardest grade sent and your hardest grade sent hanging the draws?

Poll ended at Wed Dec 17, 2014 8:01 pm

the same
11
30%
1 letter
14
38%
2 letters
6
16%
3 letters
3
8%
1 number
3
8%
1 number and a letter
0
No votes
1 number and 2 letters
0
No votes
1 number and 3 letters
0
No votes
2 numbers
0
No votes
 
Total votes : 37

Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby Rx2Climb » Fri Dec 12, 2014 6:36 pm

Last time I checked draws had weight! Unless you want to argue that weight is not a factor in climbing, then hanging the draws is definitely harder.
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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby Toy » Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:57 pm

Climbing on a 9.2 rope saves you about 3 grams per meter or about 0.1 Kg on a 100 ft route compared to a 9.5. A Petzl Spirit is almost 40 g so a full quickdraw costs ya about 100 g or the same as you save with skinny rope. Ondra ain't climbing on a 9.5 or 10.1 rope for his critical red point burn on La Dura Dura or Change. He sure as hell isn't hanging the draws. Weight matters.
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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby dfspau2 » Fri Dec 12, 2014 11:50 pm

I believe the weight thing is kind of trivial... I've taken pre red point shits that weigh more that 6 draws (it's not like your carrying a full trad rack with you)... The extra move to hang the draw is what I believe makes a route (at or close to your red point limit) feel more difficult...
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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby LK Day » Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:33 pm

I'm not even a sport climber, and I know the answer to this one. Of course it's harder to hang your own draws, because it's extra work, both in terms of weight (which may or may not be terribly significant) and in terms of the extra time and effort required, which is likely more significant. It's science!
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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby Rx2Climb » Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:42 am

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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby Toy » Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:27 pm

dfspau2 wrote:I believe the weight thing is kind of trivial... I've taken pre red point shits that weigh more that 6 draws (it's not like your carrying a full trad rack with you)... The extra move to hang the draw is what I believe makes a route (at or close to your red point limit) feel more difficult...


1. A bet that shit made your red point easier unless you take unusually airy, weightless dumps

2. You'll start to see the detrimental effect of that added weight when you start climbing routes longer than 4 bolts and anchors.
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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby ynp1 » Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:50 pm

Well I always "set" my draws when I place them. Just like trad climbers do with nuts. I give them a few good pulls to make sure everything is working right, and this obviously makes hanging the draws easier. It is like pulling on a jug a few times, it gives me a slight rest.

I also, stick my middle figure in the carabiner when I clip it. Most think it just helps hold the biner still, but really I am pulling as hard as I can with that finger to keep me on route.

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Re: Hanging the Draws vs. Hung Draws

Postby Ottice Webb » Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:12 pm

And I thought I were the only one! Dirty trick right!
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