Good routes for practice falls

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Good routes for practice falls

Postby laurenannhill » Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:04 pm

Hello everyone!

I'm planning a trip to the Red this fall, and am wondering if anyone can suggest some good sport routes in the 10s, (or maybe low 11s), that are good for taking practice falls? I'm thinking, well bolted and slightly overhanging...

What do you think? This is the season that I will conquer this fear of falling business once and for all!

Thank you!
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby Rx2Climb » Mon Sep 04, 2017 12:26 am

Johnny B. Good - 11a http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=1314

Tall with easy (5.8 maybe easier) climbing for 50 feet. Then a severally overhung section of a few bolts to the anchors. I have purposely slacked climbers so they will take +30 ft whips on the route. Very clean falls. Best route to fall on in the red?
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby DrRockso » Mon Sep 04, 2017 8:00 pm

Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby laurenannhill » Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:02 am

Thank you! Super helpful!!
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby Chiyram » Tue Sep 05, 2017 10:39 am

Does the grade change the fall some how? A local gym, if you have one, is a good place to take some practice falls. Then go to the Red to crush your projs with nerves of steel. Or like me, bring your nerves of yarn and hope they get strong.
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby Mdjagg » Fri Aug 31, 2018 10:13 am

DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch


In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby DrRockso » Fri Aug 31, 2018 11:54 pm

I
Mdjagg wrote:
DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch


In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.


As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby Prog_Rocker » Sun Sep 02, 2018 1:14 pm

What makes a practice lead fall different from a victory whip? ;)
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby DrRockso » Sun Sep 02, 2018 11:25 pm

One is practicing for an inevitable normal part of sport climbing, the other involves getting several yards of extra slack from your belayer to make the fall unnecessarily long, no doubt a fun practice outside of Muir ;) Unfortunately we have to deal with morons like these guys https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-w ... 5-12a-rrg/ that cause rules like this to exist at areas like Muir.
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Re: Good routes for practice falls

Postby Mdjagg » Mon Oct 01, 2018 3:40 pm

DrRockso wrote:I
Mdjagg wrote:
DrRockso wrote:Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch


In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.


As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.


Thanks bra. I'll be looking for a better belayer, now that you mention it.
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