New Route Bailing Device

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Chiyram
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New Route Bailing Device

Post by Chiyram » Thu Nov 09, 2017 4:33 pm

Run for the hills, every gumby getting a hold of one of these will be hangdogging your project for eternity! Everyone should probably just switch to Trad.

https://dcmountaineering.com/

:-)
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by :-) » Thu Nov 09, 2017 5:58 pm

So, while you're hanging off one, non-redundant bolt, you can accidentally unclip it when the wire gets snagged. A perfect death trap.

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ynp1
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by ynp1 » Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:32 pm

“you can accidentally unclip it when the wire gets snagged” what??? Where is there a wire? Are you scare of bolts pulling under body weight? You must be petrified every time you sport climb....

I would never use it, but I think it is kind of a cool design.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.

Chiyram
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by Chiyram » Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:16 am

:-) wrote:So, while you're hanging off one, non-redundant bolt, you can accidentally unclip it when the wire gets snagged. A perfect death trap.
I would think from the design it wouldn't be able to come unclipped while loaded. Though the gate could be open which isn't good.

And I agree YNP1, pretty creative design.

:-)
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by :-) » Fri Nov 10, 2017 12:35 pm

ynp1 wrote:Are you scare of bolts pulling under body weight?
Bolts have blown on people, but that's not why I mentioned redundancy. I mention redundancy since you're clipped into one bolt with a device that's designed to easily unclip from that one bolt. It's less safe than leaving a biner.

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ynp1
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by ynp1 » Fri Nov 10, 2017 1:04 pm

Barely, if any less safe. Like chiyram stated, it would seem it is very unlike, if not impossible for the binder to flip over and unclip while waited. Yes you could accidentally open the gate, But with a little care I am sure that could be avoided.

I like that climbers are coming up with new ideas like this. He is way smarter then me to design that. Even though I would not buy the product. I compliment people for thinking out side the box.
I don't have haters, I have fans in denial.

Mdjagg
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Re: New Route Bailing Device

Post by Mdjagg » Wed May 08, 2019 10:01 am

I have one, probably used it 5 or so times. It's not unsafe at all. There's no chance of being able to kick out the biner while lowering, the draw you're pulling has to be unweighted. Try pulling your draw off the wall by hand while you're hanging on it.

I highly recommend a solid gate with a keylock nose to get this to work. I tried a wire gate and it's impossible to get the nose past the hanger. All in all, this thing is worth every penny and has saved me $25 so far on biners, and will soon pay for itself. Beats stick clipping up a route when you get shut down and you're just ready to go. Takes roughly 2 minutes to set up.

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