The Sharp end when of Toproping

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The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:29 pm

Wanted to share our near death experience we had Sunday with y'all.
It started out as a normal day. We got on a new route out in the Miller Fork.
It looked to be a .9 or .10 around 50' 5 or 6 bolts. It looked ok little dirty but we are always climbing new routes, so no big deal.
I lead up clip the anchors, lower. My climbing prartner Jason Harbin takes his turn on toprope, with plans to clean the anchors.
He gets to just under the first bolt, maybe 10' off the ground at his feet.
BLAM the whole wall came down!! That's what I thought anyway!!!!
Turns out it was only about 4' x 8' ft at it's biggest point and 6 to 8 inches thick. I'm guessing about 500 600lbs.
I see the block shift and just made it out of the way. With the block landing 2 inches from my foot. Jason on the other hand had rode the block down. It pulled him upside-down head first, running his back down the cliff like a cheese grater.
After getting the rope unstuck from said block I lower Jason and we both just sat there thinking, what the hell just happened.
Luckly we made it out with just a little blood and shaken nerves.
I've been playing the what if game all day. So many things could have happened. We got really very very lucky.
My wife caught the moment with her phone up untill that moment. She was very shaken and in tears. She saw me run and duck and thought I was hit. I thought for sure I was too.
But all in all we are ok and here to talk about it.
My main reason for posting would be to maybe save someone and makenewer climber aware. This ain't the gym. Outside can kill be perpaird . Just cause your Toproping doesn't mean your not in danger

Pics to come if I can get em to upload.
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0610181123.jpg
Block falling with Jason
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:52 pm

Spot left by block
image000000953.jpg
Spot left by block
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:54 pm

image000000952.jpg
Jason standing on half of the block. The other half at end of rope pile.
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:58 pm

image000000.jpg
Tatts
image000000.jpg
by climbtrad scarification by Corbin sandstone.
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby MikeWilkinson » Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:10 pm

Ouch. Glad to hear that no one was seriously hurt!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:10 pm

Tatts by climbtrad scarification by Corbin sandstone
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Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby climb2core » Mon Jun 11, 2018 11:16 pm

Wow, glad you guys are ok!!!

What crag and route?
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby tradosaurus_rex » Tue Jun 12, 2018 10:10 am

Holy crap, glad everyone is OK! Was this on the first bolted route at Camelot?
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:42 pm

tradosaurus_rex wrote:Holy crap, glad everyone is OK! Was this on the first bolted route at Camelot?


About 10 or so routes to the right. Just before the little Rockhouse. Before the ladder.
Can't miss it look for the huge mud stain on the wall and bouders below
Rebolting the RED one stainless steel glue in bolt at a time!!
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby TradMike » Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:59 am

Glad to see you weren't seriously maimed. To add to your warning, we had the entire wall of Hot September shift on us as we were climbing it. The entire wall, 100' tall x 30' wide by who knows how thick moved an inch or so. We also had the block on top of Arrowhead rock on us as we were on it. We probably had too many people up there and the weight was enough to get it to rock back and forth. Someone placed a large block on Diamond in the Crack to use as a boost past the crux in the middle. It rolled off and could have easily killed someone. Rock climbing is very dangerous, be safe out there.
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Re: The Sharp end when of Toproping

Postby CLIMBTRAD » Thu Jun 14, 2018 3:59 pm

TradMike wrote:Glad to see you weren't seriously maimed. To add to your warning, we had the entire wall of Hot September shift on us as we were climbing it. The entire wall, 100' tall x 30' wide by who knows how thick moved an inch or so. We also had the block on top of Arrowhead rock on us as we were on it. We probably had too many people up there and the weight was enough to get it to rock back and forth. Someone placed a large block on Diamond in the Crack to use as a boost past the crux in the middle. It rolled off and could have easily killed someone. Rock climbing is very dangerous, be safe out there.

Yeah I've had the boulder atop Arrowhead rock for me. But Hot September that's carzy. We were climbing Rock Wars back in the late 90s or early 2000 and heard a loud crack from that area and felt the vibration. Always wondered how stable the rock was. I never lead it did take a TR a few years later and made me think of that day. But no movement thank God. That's a big one. Gladd y'all made it out.
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