
One more question. If I place gear on lead, and then sit on it to drill my bolts, is this considered a trad lead?
Wasn't it cool like 20 years ago to clip pre-placed gear on the hard "trad" routes at the Gunks? Isn't that how much of those hard lines went up? Clipping pre-placed gear is so Lynn Hill circa 1989.ynot wrote:You have to think about it in terms of numbers. With the pursuit of higher grades came a decline in "ethics". Won't be long and it will be cool to clip preplaced trad gear.
Is thas what you meant to say? So... if you get there first is what it comes down to. You run up to it, bolt and call it good. An 5.X climber, (who only uses bolts) can bolt a crack, (blasphemy, well maybe not) then that route is being done by someone who climbs at that grade with the gear THEY use. Why should trad climbers get all the fun? Talk out of one end or the other, not both.Shamis wrote: I don't mind bolts I love sport climbing,
I think mixed routes are typically put up by cheap route setters. so a little reservation about bolting seems like a good thing
but if a route can be safely done on gear by avid trad climbers who don't like death, a climber who normally climbs at that grade... then perhaps it should be left alone.
the rock doesn't exactly heal itself,
I don't mind bolts I love sport climbing
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